This Italian classic involves braising a pork loin in a large quantity of milk. As the roast cooks, the milk curdles and reduces into an intensely flavorful but unattractive sauce. We minimize curdling and amp up the flavor by adding a touch of fat from rendered salt pork. A small amount of baking soda raises the pH of the sauce to conditions more favorable for Maillard browning, a series of reactions that create flavorful aromatic compounds. Oven-braising at a low temperature yields a juicy and tender roast. Then, while the roast rests, we stir in wine, mustard, and herbs to finish the sauce.
SERVINGS: 6 INGREDIENTS 1/4 cup olive oil 2 1/2 pounds pork tenderloin, trimmed of fat and silver skin and blotted dry 1 tablespoon minced oregano 1 tablespoon minced tarragon 2 teaspoons minced rosemary 1 3/4 teaspoons salt 8 grind of black pepper 2 to 2 1/4 cups hot whole milk
DIRECTIONS In a large skillet over medium heat, warm the oil until very hot. Add the meat and cook until browned on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes total. Transfer to the slow cooker. Sprinkle with the herbs, salt and pepper. Add the milk; it should come halfway up the sides of the pork. Cover and cook on low until the pork is fork-tender, 5 to 6 1/2 hours. Transfer the pork to a warm platter and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut the roast into 1/2-inch-thick slices and spoon the creamy, thick sauce over it.